Ventanas Mexico

Resources for full- or part-time life in Mexico

Provides a blog promoting living in Mexico and promotes books on learning Spanish and how to rent in Mexico.

Why You Should Consider Tlaquepaque (Near Guadalajara) as an Aspiring Expat

 

If you are a big city person thinking about moving to Mexico to save money, Guadalajara (and to some extent Puebla) are your only choices.

Mexico City has become expensive and Monterrey caters more to commerce than expat living.

Check out any expat forum on Guadalajara. You will read little other than rave reviews from Mexicans and foreigners alike. Safe, buzzing, affordable, and a perfect mix of the modern and traditional Mexico, Guadalajara is a dream come true for the urban expat.

The biggest challenge to moving to Guadalajara would be choosing among the many picturesque and safe neighborhoods you could live.

One of the first things I noticed in Guadalajara was the absence of people who were obviously American (like me). Americans typically stand out. Among the throngs of thousands upon thousands of people I have seen living here while visiting its tourist attractions, restaurants, fraccionamientos, and malls, I have picked out only a handful of brethren Americans.  

While that might make you think you need fluent Spanish to live here, you don’t. My initial housemate in Guadalajara, an Irishman who has lived in the city for six years is only now starting Spanish lessons. A young graphic designer, he claims that even his Mexican social circles speak English.

I have no way to prove this but my theory about the lack of obvious expat presence is that most Americans who live in Guadalajara are coupled with Mexicans or Mexican-Americans. Being comfortable with the culture, they are dispersed throughout the dozen or so more affluent areas on the city, areas like Zapopan, Providencia, and Chalpultepec.

Otherwise, American expats choose nearby Ajijic and Lake Chapala (about 45 minutes away) where English is spoken as widely as Spanish and they can surround themselves with fellow expats. No doubt, these areas are lovely for those seeking tranquility and the fellowship of people who speak your language that every expat needs at least to some degree.

Many who move to Lake Chapala or Ajijic think that they will still be close enough to Guadalajara to have the best of both worlds. As many a new suburbanite has discovered, traffic radiating from a major hub city discourages all but the most committed. Very few will fight traffic for 45 minutes to have dinner in the city.

If you are single and not sure if you’re ready to give up city life but are intimidated by the prospect of a city as large as Guadalajara, a great option for a mid-term stay might be Tlaquepaque, which lies about a half-hour south of downtown Guadalajara in the direction of Guadalajara International airport and further to the south, Lake Chapala/Ajijic.

students singing in on bus in Mexico

A moment of grace: Two students sing [click to play] "Lobo-Hombre in Paris" by the band "La Union" (link) on the bus to Tlaquepaque. 

The bus to downtown (San Pedro de) Tlaquepaque takes about 30 minutes, a little under what it would take to get to Lake Chapala. Of course Uber and taxis will get you there too.  The Moovit app gives bus, walking and public transportation info.

Americans often operate on the basis of fear when coming to live in Mexico, choosing places that really don’t fit their tastes, sacrificing what they really want for a greater sense of security that communities made up largely of expats provide. If you are now a happy big city person, don’t expect to become a happy small town person because you’re in Mexico.

From Tlaquepaque, a community that does attract lots of expats, you could springboard between the city, a smaller, yet still enticing Mexican town, and the more expat-dominated communities around Lake Chapala.

Arts and crafts vendor in Mexico

Tlaquepaque’s El Centro area could be the ideal place to spend six months determining what type of Mexico experience you really want.  Rents are less than Guadalajara proper. The local language school also might be able to assist in lodging.

When it comes to trying out any place in Mexico, for the first month go for a room in a house with AirB&B or Home Away before renting a place on your own.

Sharing a home costs a fraction of the cost of renting your own place (probably between $300-600 a month). It will be better furnished and you have someone to go to if you don’t have hot water or want to know quickly where the pharmacy is. You’re always given privacy but hosts in these sharing sites are graded according to their responsiveness to your needs and questions.

Newcomers are often struck by the level of safety they feel roaming the plazas of Tlaquepaque. Families, single women, older people don’t hesitate walking around El Centro (like the señoras who helped redirect me to the appropriate bus stop for my return to the city) rather late at night.

Performance Art in Mexican Plaza

Fascinating performance art - the haunted look of a Mexican peasant.

Downtown Tlaquepaque is its own city, a criss-cross of streets and plazas, crowded with bars, restaurants, and art stores. The main street is Independencia. The Prolongación 20 de Noviembre Avenue is the city’s main axis point.

The biggest danger you’ll encounter in Centro Histórico is stumbling from gawking. The biggest challenge will be pronouncing the name of the town you’re staying in (tuh-lah-keh-pah-keh) to Uber drivers.

A major landmark of Tlaquepaque is the Jardin Hidalgo, the largest plaza flanked by two churches on Independencia, and the Parian,199 Calle Juarez, which is a block of restaurants and bars known for mariachi music.

You could easily pass whole days just people watching from these plazas, festooned with multi-colored bunting flags. Street performances, mariachi bands, and row after row of artisanal vendors (pottery and artisanal glass are its best-known)  line the cobbled streets.

Save your appetite for the roasted corn and street food (especially the sopapillas!)

 

Related links:

Cost of living in Tlaquepaque according to Expatistan

Tlaquepaque is popular and large enough to merit it's own list of best places to listen to live music.

Next up: A review of a general guide to medical care by Monica Paxon. Don't leave home without this information. 

Most recent: If you are more into modern than traditional Mexican style house, take a look at these in one of Guadalajara's most affluent neighborhoods.

Hola, I'm Kerry Baker and a partner with Ventanas Mexico and author of two guides. The first is "The Interactive Guide to Learning Spanish Free Online," giving you links to the best free language tools and features on the web, with lesson plan.

This is an interactive book with direct links to the tools you'll never find on your own.  Study from your laptop, e-reader or tablet, like the new Amazon Fire.  Personally, I love studying from my Acer Aspire.

Recommended by my terrific computer consultant, Vasif, the Aspire is lightweight, elegant and thin - perfect for travel between two countries.

My second book is "If Only I Had a Place," a guide to renting in Mexico, complete with a listing of rental concierges. Live luxuriously for less and learn a system of securing the best places year after year. [reviews].